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Island paradise? -

The impossibly picturesque island of Ilha Grande in Rio de Janeiro state is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and protected nature reserve. Over an hour's boat trip from the mainland, it attracts tourists looking to relax in a tropical paradise. But it has an intriguing dark tourism appeal, too.

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Unspoiled beaches -

The island is closed to cars, and is home to 100 beaches sitting amid pristine nature. But Ilha Grande (the name translates to "Big Island") was off-limits to outsiders for much of its recent history.

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Ilha Grande -

The mountainous island, which spans 193 km² (75 sq mi), was discovered in 1502 by Portuguese navigator Andre Gonçalves.

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Dark past -

Surrounded by literally hundreds of smaller islands some 150 km (193 mi) from the state capital, Ilha Grande was seen as the ideal location for housing first infectious patients, and then dangerous criminals. The Cândido Mendes penal institute was closed in 1994, but the remains still stand today.

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Dark past -

The island's prison first housed political prisoners during the 1930s, before becoming a top-security jail for some of the most hardened criminals in the country. It was notoriously a breeding ground for some of the most violent drug gangs in Brazil.

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Arriving from the mainland -

Arriving on the island today, visitors would have little idea of its dark secrets. Ferries and fishing schooners ship enthusiastic tourists over from nearby beach towns on Rio de Janeiro's stunning Costa Verde, literally "Green Coast."

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Small-town life -

After a bumpy boat trip, tourists dock at Vila do Abraão. With less than 2,000 inhabitants, it's the largest town on the island.

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A refuge for pirates -

Even before it housed leprosy patients and criminals, Ilha Grande was a refuge for pirates and smugglers, who used the island as a base for operations at sea and on the mainland.

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Trails to the prison -

Most people come to Ilha Grande to discover its beaches and natural beauty, and hiking the steep trails is a popular activity.

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Dark tourism -

Those with a darker curiosity can follow a 7 km (4.34 mi) trail route to the former Cândido Mendes prison and the almost-abandoned settlement of Dois Rios, which formerly housed the prison guards. 

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Gang crime -

The stark contrast between the history of the building and its beautiful surroundings has made this route a popular one with photographers, as well as those with an interest in the island's past.

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Traces of the past -

It's a steep, sticky, inland route through tropical jungle to reach the remains of the prison, but those curious to see Brazil's version of Alcatraz will be well rewarded.

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Chilling contrast -

The prison ruins offer a glimpse into a past that is very much at odds with Ilha Grande's current incarnation as a tourist destination filled with charming pousadas (guest houses).

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Violent gangs -

The prison here was infamous for nurturing gang violence. One of the country's most notorious gangs, the Comando Vermelho ("Red Command") was born here in the late 1970s.

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Closure of the prison -

Rising costs of running the prison led to its closure in 1994, and the island's potential as a tourist attraction gradually began to be realized.

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A new start -

Today, much of the island is subject to environmental protection orders, which limits development and contributes to the unspoilt beauty of the place. There are no high rises or chain hotels here!

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Taxi boats -

With the island closed to cars, visitors get around on foot, by bicycle, or by boat. A system of 'taxi boats' transports visitors from one beautiful beach to another.

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Colorful residents -

The island's beautiful topography–towering mountains covered in pristine Atlantic rainforest–is home to endangered species such as maned sloths and brown howler monkeys, but visitors are more likely to spot a colorful parrot.

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Friendly locals -

Ilha Grande is famously peaceful, and these days you're much more likely to meet a marmoset or howler monkey than a hardened criminal.

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Beach dogs -

Visitors are also likely to meet some of the many canine inhabitants of the island. Stray dogs make themselves at home on the beaches, and are usually keen to make friends with tourists (especially if they have food!).

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Lopes Mendes beach -

The island's most famous beach is Lopes Mendes, which is considered one of the most beautiful in Brazil. In a country that prides itself on its stunning coastline, that's saying something!

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Visiting the beaches -

From the main town, it's a stiff hike through tropical jungle to reach Lopes Mendes, and the year-round heat can make it tough going. Many visitors choose to hike one way and make the return leg of the trip by boat.

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Surf destination -

The white sands and crashing waves make Lopes Mendes a popular destination for surfers. Don't expect to find beachfront cafés and shops here though–visitors have to bring their own supplies.

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Trails for days -

Ilha Grande is a hiker's paradise. Some 150 km (93 mi) of trails connect the island's small villages and beach hamlets. Just watch out for lizards and tropical insects underfoot!

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Booming tourism -

Tourism on Ilha Grande has boomed in recent years, and what began as a handful of small guest houses now encompasses over 100 lodging options, as well as campsites and lively backpacker hostels.

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Marine life -

Famed for its turquoise sea, Ilha Grande is popular with snorkelers and divers. The protected waters are home to marine species including sea turtles, dolphins, and even penguins.

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Boat trips -

Boat trips are available in abundance on the island, with local operators offering everything from caipirinha-fueled beach-hopping party trips to sunset dinner cruises.

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Cooling off -

Famous nature spots include crystal clear lagoons and crashing waterfalls, so visitors to Ilha Grande are rarely short of opportunities to cool off.

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Living museum -

The past is still very much evident on Ilha Grande, and the hike to the prison is well signposted. It's an intriguing peek into the dark past of an island that these days is all about sunshine and happy times. 

Sources: (The Guardian) (BBC)

See also: The coolest coastal destinations in Brazil

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