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Growing global problem -

Food-related crimes cost the global food industry between US$30 and $50 billion a year and can include smuggling, counterfeiting, and out-and-out theft.

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The unique value of cheese -

Many of these food-related crimes have targeted the luxury cheese industry. One such example happened in the days before Christmas of 2023 when over US$64,000 worth of cheese was stolen near Worcester in the UK.

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Historical context -

Stealing cheese dates back to 1998 when nine tons of cheddar were stolen from a storeroom in Somerset, England. 

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European incidents: Parmigiano Reggiano -

In 2016, over US$102,550 worth of Parmigiano Reggiano was stolen from a warehouse in northern Italy.

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Rising cheese prices -

Cheese has become more valuable in the industry and rose about 25% alongside all food and non-acholic beverages in the UK between January 2022 and January 2024.

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Energy-intensive production -

According to dairy expert Patrick McGuigan, "Cheesemaking demands a lot of energy." The process requires heating milk and keeping the cheese in energy-intensive refrigeration, making fuel costs a significant factor in overall expenses.

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Impact of global events on cheese prices -

When Russia invaded Ukraine, it caused a large disruption that resulted in a price increase.

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Retail response: Security tags on cheese -

Despite the overall food price inflation falling to 1.7% in 2024 in the UK, the retail price of cheddar went up by 6.5%. Hence the addition of security tags on blocks of cheddar in the supermarket...

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Challenges of transporting cheese -

Since most cheese tends to be heavy and needs to be stored at specific temperatures, stealing it can be very complicated. However, if a group of highly organized criminals is involved, they can certainly pull it off.

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Organized crime and food -

Organized crime has long found its way into food distribution. For example, there are many illegal drugs smuggled through legal food supply chains globally.

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Smuggling techniques in food crime -

According to Andy Quinn of the National Food Crime Unit (NFCU), criminals will try to figure out how a business operates and work to take control of its distribution channels. They can then start moving illegal items, including food.

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Lower penalties for food theft -

The food crimes arena is more attractive to some criminals because it can result in less severe penalties than those received for drug-related crimes. These criminals can still make substantial amounts of money while minimizing their risk.

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Difficulty in selling stolen cheese -

Criminals can have a hard time shifting and reselling artisan cheese due to its bulk and need to be stored carefully.

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Black market destinations for cheese -

A lot of stolen cheese is thus sent overseas to countries that have thriving black markets for food.

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Russia’s black market for cheese -

After the unlawful annexation of Crimea in March 2014, the EU and other nations implemented economic sanctions against Russia. In response, President Vladimir Putin prohibited the import of fresh produce from the sanctioning countries.

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“Fromagicide” and Russian border confiscations -

Foreign food such as cheese was shown on television being bulldozed, buried, or even burned.

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Black market routes into Russia -

Alongside wine, cheese is the most common product being illegally transported into Russia these days.

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Demand for Western cheese in Russia -

There is a high demand for foreign cheese, which many Russians feel is superior to the quality of their local cheeses.

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Counterfeit cheese in Russia -

Since 2014, countries that weren't previously known for their cheese have begun appearing on shop shelves.

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Other schemes -

There are even companies that import cheese from Europe into Belarus or other CIS countries, swap the label, and then sell it legally in Russia.

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Cheese counterfeiting in the Middle East -

In parts of the Middle East, there are food subsidies that can motivate smugglers to illegally transport ingredients from one place to another where prices are higher. Counterfeiting and creating a copy of an official type of cheese is also popular in this region.

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The US black market for raw-milk cheese -

There are strict rules in the US barring people from producing or importing unpasteurized cheeses aged for less than 60 days. This ban has led to a black market for raw milk products.

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Food counterfeiting in the US -

In the US, there are fake versions of expensive cheese popping up. This type of "cheese" will use additives from wood pulp.

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Microchipped parmesan -

Parmigiano Reggiano is the world's most stolen cheese and those at Italy's Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium say that there is a robust black market. Therefore, in 2022, the consortium started using tiny tracking chips embedded in the rind to help reduce theft.

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Monitoring supply chains to prevent theft -

For companies who can't afford or choose not to use high-tech chip options, there is still a way to help prevent future fraud. One company in particular plans to visit buyers in person when large orders are made instead of relying on digital communications.

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Slow integration into markets -

Stolen cheese can be stored and then slowly integrated back into supply chains. This means that large stolen supplies could surface months or years after a heist, making it more challenging to find the culprit.

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Impact of theft on farms and artisanal producers -

Cheese theft and large-scale crimes can severely impact small farms and artisanal cheese makers. A loss like some of the ones mentioned in this gallery could result in having to close up shop.

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Decline of small cheesemakers in the UK -

Unless food fraud and food-related crimes are stopped, more farms and businesses will suffer similar attacks. Cheese is highly sought-after and business owners will have to take precautions when an order comes in that seems too good to be true.

Sources: (BBC)

See also: Why do we like true crime so much?

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