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This history of bouldering -

Bouldering as we know it today began in the early 20th century. It gained popularity in the 1970s among Yosemite climbers in the US seeking to improve their technical skills. During the '80s, indoor climbing gyms began to surface, leading to the evolution of the standalone sport focused on strength, problem-solving, and technique.

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What is bouldering? -

Bouldering is a type of rock climbing, but without ropes or harnesses. Climbers use strength, balance, and problem-solving skills to scale short, challenging routes on rock formations or artificial walls.

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An Olympic sport -

Not just a fun way of keeping fit or making friends, bouldering is also an Olympic sport! Competitive climbing made its debut at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo, and showed the world just how physically demanding the sport can be.

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Indoor or outdoor? -

Bouldering takes place inside gyms on walls with artificial holds, or outside on natural rock formations. In climbing gyms, route setters regularly change routes to offer diverse and challenging climbing experiences for boulderers. Outdoor bouldering involves climbing on varied terrain with unpredictable conditions.

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Grades -

Grades are used in bouldering to convey the difficulty of boulder problems. The two most common grading systems are the V-scale (from the US) and the French Fontainebleau Scale. V-scale routes are graded from V0 (easiest) to V17 (most difficult), and the Fontainebleau scale grades problems from 1 to 9, with additional letters (a, b, c) indicating finer distinctions within each grade.

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Problems -

Bouldering problems are like puzzles; they are the specific sequences of moves climbers must complete to ascend a boulder or climbing wall. Each problem varies in difficulty and requires strength, technique, and problem-solving skills to navigate from start to finish.

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Etiquette -

Etiquette in bouldering gyms includes being respectful and considerate of others while climbing. Keep holds clean by brushing off excess chalk, be aware of others around you, always stay off the mats or away from the wall when you are not actively climbing, and don’t give unsolicited advice.

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Strength -

Climbers require strength in their arms, core, and fingers. But don’t worry: if you haven’t got much strength to begin with, you’ll build it up the more you climb. If you’d like to gain some strength before you start bouldering, incorporate upper and lower-body-focused workouts into your exercise routine.

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Problem-solving -

The sport is just as much of a mental challenge as it is a physical one. Scope out the boulder problems and plan your movements strategically before hitting the wall.

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Grip strength -

Grip strength is essential in bouldering because it helps boulderers maintain control and stability, especially on small or sloping holds. It also ensures they can execute dynamic movements with confidence.

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Flexibility -

Improving flexibility enables a wide range of motion, which helps climbers move their bodies into unnatural positions while reaching for holds. Incorporate yoga or stretching into your workout routine.

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Techniques -

Some common bouldering techniques include footwork, heel hooks, and bridging. Learning these approaches early on will also develop confidence for more intermediate and advanced moves.

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Warm-ups -

Warming up before hitting the wall is crucial. A thorough warm-up increases blood flow to muscles, making them more flexible and less prone to injury. It also increases joint flexibility and range of motion, enabling climbers to reach holds more effectively.

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Climb with your legs, not your arms -

One common mistake new boulderers make is relying too much on their arms to pull themselves up, neglecting the strength of their leg muscles. Instead, try the "legs over arms" approach to conserve energy and stop your arms from getting tired quickly.

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Types of bouldering holds -

The five main types of bouldering holds are: jugs, crimps (and edges and chips), pinches, slopers (and guppies), and pockets. To get the most out of any hold, squeeze only as hard as you need to stay on, and focus on the direction you want to pull.

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Health benefits -

The health benefits of bouldering include cardiorespiratory fitness, enhanced memory, and boosted mental health. It may also aid in weight loss.

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Chalk -

Boulderers use chalk to improve grip. The chalk absorbs the moisture and sweat from their hands and reduces the likelihood of slipping off holds.

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Skin protection -

Bouldering is hard on the hands, but if you use athletic tape, hand creams, and salves, you’ll keep your skin in good condition and reduce the risk of blisters and abrasions.

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Breathing -

It may seem obvious, but remembering to breathe while bouldering is an important aspect of the sport. Deep, rhythmic breathing helps boulderers stay calm and oxygenate their muscles, enhancing endurance and efficiency on the wall.

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Shoes -

You’ll need a pair of climbing shoes before you start bouldering. The shoes should fit snugly, like a firm handshake, and provide a good grip on the rock or holds. You can buy them new or second-hand.

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Clothes -

It is advised to wear loose or breathable clothing that allows for a full range of motion. Athletic shorts or leggings and a moisture-wicking top are popular choices.

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Brushes -

Brushes are used to remove chalk buildup and debris from holds. Cleaning the holds provides better grip and friction for climbing, and ensures challenging moves can be performed safely.

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Crash mats -

Crash mats or pads are placed beneath bouldering routes to cushion falls. While climbing gyms are already equipped with mats, you’ll need to purchase your own if you wish to climb outdoors.

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Competitions -

Bouldering gyms across the world offer all kinds of competition, with many falling under the ‘just for fun’ category. The IFSC Climbing World Championships is the most significant climbing event worldwide. Featuring bouldering, lead climbing, speed climbing, and paraclimbing disciplines, it represents the highest level of competition.

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Injuries -

The most common injuries in bouldering involve the hands and fingers, shoulders, wrists, ankles, and feet. These injuries can range from mild strains to complete tears or broken bones if you fall from the wall or rock badly.

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Falls -

Falling is a natural part of bouldering, but boulderers aim to land safely on crash pads to minimize the risk of injury. Techniques include the tuck and roll and controlled descent. You may wish to practice these techniques a few times from a low height to get used to falling.

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Community -

Bouldering is a great way to make new friends and build community. Boulderers are generally a friendly bunch and often swap tips, share words of encouragement, and celebrate successes.

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Cost -

The cost of bouldering can be as cheap or expensive as you make it. It’s up to you if you want to buy high-end shoes, clothes, or even designer chalk bags. Or you could save some money with cheaper options. If you intend to focus on indoor climbing, it’s worth noting you’ll need to pay for access to a climbing gym, where prices can vary.

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Age -

One of the benefits of bouldering is its suitability for all ages, from children to seniors. However, keep in mind that children may require supervision, and older adults may need to adjust their climbing intensity accordingly.

Sources: (Craghoppers) (The New York Times) (Climbing Magazine)

See also: Why you should start rock climbing

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