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It's no exaggeration to describe a bespoke suit as a second skin. This is personalized sartorial menswear at its very best. But what exactly do we mean when we talk about bespoke tailoring?
Bespoke tailoring is clothing made to an individual buyer's specifications by a tailor. More pertinently, bespoke suiting involves a special relationship with said tailor.
A bespoke tailor has a hand in customizing every aspect of your suit. Clothing designed this way is often referred to as "tailor-made," or a "tailored fit."
The word bespoke derives from the verb bespeak—to speak for something. Its use dates back to 1583 and the Oxford English Dictionary.
Fashion terminology reserves bespoke for individually patterned and crafted men's clothing, a time-honored menswear tradition that has its origins in the late 1700s. However, modern usage of the term is understood to have originated in London's Savile Row when cloth for a suit was said to "be spoken for" by individual customers.
Bespoke suiting is clothing tailored to your body. The process begins with the client discussing with the tailor his vision for a suit. Once fabrics, linings, and styling details are chosen, the tailor will then measure the client.
Armed with an idea of the client's needs, the tailor will then take measurements.
While client input is welcomed, every bespoke tailor has their opinion on how a suit should fit, something that is referred to as a "house cut" or a "house style."
What's the difference between bespoke tailoring and made-to-measure? Bespoke tailors are usually small independent family businesses. Made-to-measure is typically offered by large luxury brands.
Anyone who's opted for bespoke tailoring will be in the hands of an expert. Once the client has been measured, the tailor will chalk out the pattern on the fabric and lining and cut it out with shears.
After basting the garment together, the client will be recalled for a first fitting. Their initial views and opinions will determine whether any minor adjustments need to be made before moving forward.
With design based on individual measurements and personal preferences, the tailor will make any modifications as requested.
It's commonplace to invite the client for several sittings as the garment takes shape. Besides overall shape, bespoke tailoring accounts for many more aspects that make a dramatic difference in how well the suit fits.
This attention to detail extends to checking shoulder angles, shoulder width, sleeve angles, and general posture.
Bespoke services require anything from eight weeks to up to four months to complete a suit.
This is because of the elaborate fitting process, which may number several before the suit is completed
A bespoke tailoring boutique typically offers anywhere between 30,00 and 5,000 fabric choices.
Produced from scratch, a bespoke suit is a flawless garment, created through a meticulous and analytical process to mirror the man it's made for.
Bespoke tailoring extends to tailored dress shirts. It makes sense to invest in a quality garment like this to complement the cut and color of your suit.
Likewise, be sure to order a necktie— essential to a suit looking good on the wearer. Go for complementary colors when selecting the suit, dress shirt, and tie combination.
Also referred to as a tie bar, these accessories hold a necktie in place in a practical and fashionable manner. There are numerous designs, so you can customize your look depending on the style and color of your suit.
Looking to add a bit of personalized detail to your suit? Using cufflinks adds style and sophistication to any outfit.
A watch is much more than something we use to tell the time. But there's an art to wearing an expensive timepiece. This is an accessory that serves as a statement to one's taste in fashion. Just make sure it works as a complement and not a distraction.
A belt's size, width, material, and color determine the formality. Thus a suit is usually paired with a formal belt that features either classic or "statement" buckles. Match the color of this accessory with that of your footwear.
Typically, oxfords, brogues, and derby shoes are the most formal shoes paired with suits.
Bespoke suiting calls for at least 25 measurements, each one unique and very precise.
While made-to-measure takes a lot less time than bespoke, a tailored fit offers almost infinite possibilities to customize your garment. It's a far more precise process.
These measurements are necessary in order to create a paper draft, or pattern.
As a general guide, a black suit should be paired with black shoes, a navy suit with black, brown, or burgundy shoes, and a gray suit with black, dark brown, or burgundy shoes.
Sources: (The British Library) (Nicholas Joseph) (Luxury London)
See also: Male celebs with fearless fashion sense
In Shakespeare's 'Hamlet,' Polonius tells his son Laertes to dress well because "apparel oft proclaims the man;" this phrase is now expressed in modern parlance as "the clothes maketh the man." And, indeed, a well-groomed man in a tailored suit is sartorial elegance personified. But in order to achieve such a dramatic and well-defined look, one has to go beyond made-to-measure and instead seek out the services of a bespoke tailor and the very highest level of customized garment making. But what exactly does it mean to wear a bespoke suit?
Click through and find out how to become a sharp-dressed man.
Suit up! The benefits of bespoke tailoring
"The clothes maketh the man"
FASHION Men's fashion
In Shakespeare's 'Hamlet,' Polonius tells his son Laertes to dress well because "apparel oft proclaims the man;" this phrase is now expressed in modern parlance as "the clothes maketh the man." And, indeed, a well-groomed man in a tailored suit is sartorial elegance personified. But in order to achieve such a dramatic and well-defined look, one has to go beyond made-to-measure and instead seek out the services of a bespoke tailor and the very highest level of customized garment making. But what exactly does it mean to wear a bespoke suit?
Click through and find out how to become a sharp-dressed man.