This system has helped people for decades
Gidget was a fictional character based on real-life surfer Kathy Kohner. She told her father, Frederick Kohner, that she wanted to write a book about her surfing experiences. Frederick Kohner ended up writing the popular book series ‘Gidget’ based on her life. The books were later adapted into several films and a television series starring Sally Field.
Even with the portrayal of a female surfer like Gidget, the predominant image of a surfer was of a white man. However, by the 1970s, female surfers like Joyce Hoffman, Linda Benson, and Rell Sunn made a name for themselves as professional surfers.
Before the Beach Boys were playing on the radio, the big screen found a star in the film ‘Gidget’ (1959), about a California girl who surfed in Malibu.
With the development of surf culture, slang like "dude" and "rad" emerged, as well as the "shaka" hand sign, also known as the "hang loose."
This was the decade of the big surf boom, not only on the beaches, but also in music, with the Beach Boys releasing their first hit 'Surfin' U.S.A.' in 1963. The southern Californian beach culture was born.
Rell Sunn was a native Hawaiian surfer who carved out space for herself in the male-dominated sport. She began surfing at the age of four in Makaha, and when older she entered in men’s competitions, as there weren’t many for women. Her given middle name, Kapolioka’ehukai, hinted to her success, as it means "heart of the sea" in Hawaiian.
The first written heritage about surfing was found in James Cook’s diary from 1771. For Europeans, not only had the British captain discovered the new lands, but also surfing. Shortly after Cook’s arrival, colonization began, which resulted in the British imposing their customs and culture. Many natives died because of European diseases, and much of the traditions were lost.
No longer just a subculture, surfing has today become an Olympic sport, and keeps gaining popularity with global events growing by the year. And the thrill of wave hunting continues to take people worldwide to discover 'new' surfing spots.
Sources: (Planet Surf Camps) (History) (Surfcanarias) (The Wave)
See also: Crazy sports of the ancient world
During this period, research began on new shapes of surfboards. Previously made of wood, the new versions were shorter and thinner, and made of materials like fiberglass and polyurethane foam. The round nose and laminated fins were invented by Joe Quigg, making more intricate maneuvers possible.
The reports about surfing caused great interest in the non-native population, and as Hawaii became part of the American territories, the natives were allowed to freely surf again. By the beginning of the 20th century, surfing had reemerged in the Hawaiian coasts, with natives and tourists alike participating.
In the 1960s, thanks to the wetsuit and smaller boards, surfing became a popular pastime sport for white, middle-class Californians.
The boards were made of wood, and rituals were practiced during the surfboard shaping. During these ceremonies, people asked for protection and to secure their gods' goodwill.
The first references to surfing can be found in 12th-century cave paintings in Polynesia. These cave paintings illustrated people riding on waves. Via seafaring, Polynesians brought surfing to Hawaii.
In the early '50s, the first wetsuit was invented by Jack O’Neill, which protected surfers from the cold Californian water.
Christian missionaries arrived as well, forcing Hawaiians to wear clothes and go to church. The native’s culture was considered immoral, including the practice of surfing. At the time, surfing lost its strong influence, but never totally vanished.
After his Olympic success, The Duke started traveling around the world and introduced surfing in regions like the state of California and the country of Australia. This caused great impact on the public, and a worldwide interest surged.
Surfing meant a healthy lifestyle, but also rebellious flair together with an adventurous spirit
In the 1840s, writers and journalists arrived in Hawaii. Appalled by the treatment of the natives, they started denouncing it and began describing surfing to the world. One famous writer was Mark Twain, who in his novel 'The Adventures of Tom Sawyer,' described the experience of a beginner surfer.
In this gallery, we'll take you through the fascinating journey of surfing, from its roots in Polynesia to how it became the cultural phenomenon it is today.
The rich history of surfing
From ancient rituals to modern-day thrills
LIFESTYLE Sports
While surfing is often associated with modern-day adrenaline seekers, its origins stretch back hundreds of years to ancient Polynesian culture. Far from being just a sport, surfing was once a deeply spiritual practice. Over time, surfing spread across the globe, experiencing both periods of decline and resurgence.
In this gallery, we'll take you through the fascinating journey of surfing, from its roots in Polynesia to how it became the cultural phenomenon it is today.