Researchers call it a potential "game-changer"
Salicylic acid might sound intimidating, but it's a common ingredient in spot-fighting skin care products. It's a beta hydroxy acid, known for unclogging pores and eliminating dead skin cells to fight spots and brighten skin.
It can be tempting to jump straight in at the deep end with face acid products, but the highest concentrations on the market won't necessarily yield the best results. In fact, they could increase the risk of adverse reactions such as redness or peeling.
Found naturally in the body, this moisture-boosting acid tends to be found in abundance in youthful skin, but diminishes with age. As such, it's a good idea to give older skin a helping hand by using products rich in hyaluronic acid. Many inexpensive night creams, refreshing spritzer sprays, and sun creams now contain it.
Ready for the science part? Skin care acids largely fall into two categories: water-soluble alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and oil-soluble beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).
It might seem easy to dismiss face acids as faddy products that are ineffective at best, and downright dangerous at worst. But while caution is key, many face acids have proven results that can have a positive impact on your skin.
Sometimes referred to as an entry-level acid, glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that's well-tolerated by most skin types (although, as with all facial acids, a patch test is advisable on first use). Like most AHA acids, it's great for exfoliating and brightening the skin. It has the smallest molecules of common skin care acids, which dermatologists say makes for speedy results.
AHA acids work by exfoliating the top layer of dead skin to reveal the brighter skin cells beneath, and are often used in professional peels and home skin care products to reduce fine lines and even out skin tone. Some of the more familiar types are glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and ferulic acid.
Face acids are a booming business in the world of skin care for good reason—there's an acid to treat almost every skin problem, from acne to signs of aging. Most work in essentially the same way, by increasing the turnover of dead skin cells, leaving behind brighter skin that radiates good health.
Vitamin C has been used for centuries to ward off colds and boost the immune system, and skin care experts now tout the virtues of applying that Vit-C goodness directly to your face.
Most women have their own skin care concerns. Whether you're concerned about breakouts, dull skin, or the first signs of aging, there's a face acid out there that will tackle the problem head on. Some, such as hyaluronic acid in facial moisturizers, are commonly incorporated into high-street products. Others, such as glycolic acid for 'glowing skin,' are often swept over the skin in more concentrated form, or used in salon peeling treatments.
When trying any facial acid for the first time, especially at higher concentrations, it's advisable to carry out a patch test first. Clean a small area of skin, apply the product, and wait 24 hours to see if there's any adverse reaction. If not, you're good to go.
For many women, using face acids can be an effective way to get a youthful glow and younger-looking skin, without plumping for Botox or fillers.
Also know as ascorbic acid, vitamin C packs a powerful antioxidant punch. It's said to promote collagen production and protect against skin-damaging free radicals. Used as a serum, vitamin C will typically aid long-term skin health while providing an immediate cosmetic glow.
Slightly slower acting than some other AHA face acids, mandelic acid is good news for dry skin. Ideal for giving skin a moisture boost, it increases sebum production and as such should be avoided by those whose skin tends to be oily.
For those who don't mind facing the needle, hyaluronic acid is also increasingly popular as an injectable 'tweakment.' By no means attempt this at home—professional cosmetic physicians will inject the collagen-boosting product into the face and/or neck to increase elasticity and reduce wrinkles or sagging skin.
A gentle alpha hydroxy acid that's both exfoliating and moisturizing, lactic acid can be derived from sugar or fermenting milk. Cleopatra's famous habit of bathing in milk was a solid skin care choice: lactic acid is frequently added to moisturizing products for sensitive-skin types.
With so many lotions and potions on the market, it can be hard to know which products to apply, and in what order. This is where 'layering' comes in: for example, you might apply a moisturizing hyaluronic acid after an exfoliating acid. Layering AHA and BHA acids isn't recommended, however, as they are both exfoliants and doubling up could cause irritation.
While those special offers that crop up on social media might sound promising, it pays to do your research first. Read the reviews before you buy, taking your own skin's needs into consideration. And don't be shy to ask for word-of-mouth recommendations. If your friend's skin is looking fabulous, ask them what they use!
While alpha hydroxy acids do a great job in tackling fine lines and brightening skin, nothing beats a beta hydroxy acid when it comes to tackling spot-prone skin.
Most products containing powerful acids will display the concentration percentage on the packaging. Be kind to your skin by starting with the lowest percentage and working your way up gradually. Sensitive-skinned types should use acids no more than every other day for the first few weeks.
These oil-soluble acids can penetrate deep into pores to clear out all the grease that causes breakouts in the first place. Usually found as salicylic acids, they tend to have a toning, smoothing effect on the skin, too. It's a win-win for oily skin!
Many skin care manufacturers market higher-strength acid products as "home peels." They can be effective in brightening skin, but be careful to read the fine print—some need to be washed off within a few minutes, others can be left on overnight. Generally, they are intended for weekly or twice-weekly use rather than daily.
If you do want to get the benefit of both glow-enhancing AHAs and spot-busting BHAs, the best way to do this is with a product that already combines these in suitable proportions, rather than attempting to layer them yourself. These are most commonly found as peels or masks.
A naturally-occurring AHA acid found in bran and some fruits, ferulic acid is a potent anti-ager thanks to its ability to help the skin fight off free radicals. It works particularly well in combination with other antioxidants, and is thought to boost the performance of vitamin C in skin care products.
It is vital to apply a strong sunscreen when using face acids, even if you apply the product at night and wash it off in the morning. Most acids increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight, so go for factor 50 and avoid the sun at the hottest part of the day.
Sources: (Allure) (Healthline) (TheCut)
See also: Homemade face masks you need to try
In-salon peels will use higher concentrations of acid, for a more marked effect than you'd get at home. Even if salons are closed, don't ever attempt a DIY deep peel with salon-strength ingredients. These beauty-boosters are strictly for the professionals.
Salicylic acid is often used in face washes to target blocked pores and prevent breakouts, but also comes into its own as a body wash to treat those pesky spots wherever they tend to crop up.
Often derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid has been widely used as an ingredient in salon skin peels for some time. Known for imparting glow, it's an exfoliant that can help even out skin tone. Glycolic acid is now widely available in lower concentrations as an inexpensive home skin care product.
Some skin care superheroes don't fit neatly into either AHA or BHA categories. Ascorbic acid and hyaluronic acid are notable cases in point.
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HEALTH Skin care
Let's face it: the idea of letting acid anywhere near your face can sound pretty scary! And even if you get past the fear factor, how do you know where to start? The past few years have seen face acids make the move from salon peels to home skincare staples, but the sheer number of products on the market can be bewildering. Hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, azelaic acid... it's hard enough to know how to pronounce them, let alone figure out how to use them!
But there's no need to venture blind into the world of face acids—browse this gallery to get familiar with these scary-sounding skincare products.